Santa Fe: The City Different

Journey’s End sculpture at the entrance of Museum Hill  showing the arrival of a Santa Fe Trail caravan.

Part 7 / Final Leg of our Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado Love Your Parks Tour Road Trip Adventure.

On Monday, June 17, we were back on the road before dawn, heading south from Florence, Colorado to Santa Fe, New Mexico. It was a scenic 4½  hour drive down Highway 25 to “The City Different,” and we were excited to finally meet our friend travel writer Debbie Stone who writes in Big Blend Magazines and shares her world travel experiences on Big Blend Radio. Debbie lives in Santa Fe and is a docent at the renown Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, which is where our Santa Fe experience began.

Travel writer and Georgia O'Keeffe Museum docent Debbie Stone

There truly is no city like Santa Fe. In fact, with its laid back vibe, awesome mountain views, distinct architecture and dedication to the arts, it doesn’t even feel like a city. It’s friendly, beautiful and loaded with character, not to mention big on flavor! It all goes back to its diverse cultural roots that include Native American, Spanish and European.

The Plaza is the hub of Downtown Santa Fe

Nestled at the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Santa Fe was originally the site of ancient Pueblo villages - we’re talking way back when between 1050-1150. Then in 1540, conquistador Don Francisco Vasques de Coronado claimed the sites as the "Kingdom of New Mexico" for the Spanish Crown.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

Later in 1607, Spanish governor Don Pedro de Peralta founded Santa Fe as a new city, and called it “La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Asís,” which translates as the “Royal Town of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi.” This makes Santa Fe the oldest capital city in the country! It’s also home to America’s oldest continuously occupied government building, oldest house, and oldest church! 

Today, Santa Fe is a cultural mecca of art, history and architectural interest, as well as numerous opportunities for outdoor recreation.

The Palace of the Governors is the oldest continuously occupied government building in the US

We spent four nights in Santa Fe and barely scratched the surface of what there is to see and do! Here's a little glimpse of what our itinerary looked like: 

DAY 1: DOWNTOWN SANTA FE

1. Our very first stop was the Tourism Santa Fe Information Center where we loaded up on brochures, maps and the Santa Fe Trail Walking Tour Guide that provides a list and background of the various historic buildings throughout the downtown district and of course, the Santa Fe Trail.

2. Tour of the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum that along with showcasing O’Keeffe’s variety in art subjects which is far more than the vibrant floral paintings she became so well known for, also shares her legacy as a noteworthy female artist and an icon in American modernism. Just a few steps away, you can see the Georgia O’Keeffe Research Center which is within the Alfred Bergere House. Built in 1871, this historic building was once a summer vacation home for former President Ulysses Grant! 

Chocolate Semifreddo for Dessert at Cafe Pasqual's

3. Lunch at Cafe Pasqual's. This festive and popular farm-to-table venue sources the majority of their ingredients from certified organic farmers and sustainable producers. We ordered the Yucatan Organic Chicken Breast Salad that was packed with fresh citrus flavors, and the Blue Lady Enchilada plate that was laden with New Mexico's revered green chile. It’s a good thing Santa Fe is a walking city because we savored every decadent bite of the chocolate semifreddo we had for dessert! Be sure to check out their upstairs art gallery.

I felt like the Queen of the Southwest at the Inn of the Governors!

4. Checked in at The Inn of Governors, a beautiful and historic family-friendly hotel in the heart of downtown Santa Fe. The exterior welcomes you with free parking and a vibrant array of flower power, and the interior greets you with friendly and attentive staff, southwestern style furnishings all with a splash of European flair. Along with a lovely pool and patio area, guests enjoy a complimentary full breakfast buffet, plus from 4pm-5pm, there's tea and sherry time (our favorite) that's served with Biscochito, New Mexico's state cookies!

The hotel also has a great onsite restaurant and bar Del Charro, that has a reasonably priced menu featuring Santa Fe favorites like Frito Pie, as well as a good selection of burgers, salads and sandwiches. It's on the Santa Fe Margarita Trail too.

Hear our Blend Radio interview with general manager Sam Gerberding on YouTube.com.  

Experience ancient archaeological sites at Bandelier National Monument 

DAY 2: BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT & THE PLAZA
1. Up early to visit Bandelier National Monument, about a 50 minute drive out of Santa Fe. Spanning 33,000 acres of dramatic and beautiful canyon and mesa country, Bandelier NM protects over 10,000 years of human history that includes nomadic hunter-gatherers, Ancestral Pueblo peoples, and Spanish settlers.

We hiked the 1.2 mile Main Loop Trail in Frijoles Canyon through and past incredible archeological sites such as the Big Kiva, Tyuonyi, Talus House, and the incredible Long House which is an 800-ft stretch of adjoining stone homes with hand-carved caves. The tree shaded nature trail followed the Frijoles Creek and led us back to the picnic sites, Visitor Center and parking lot.  You can watch our Bandelier National Monument video on YouTube.com.

Poeh Cultural Center provides a 'then and now' of  Pueblo art, history and culture 

2. A visit to the Poeh Cultural Center located at the Pueblo of Pojoaque, on the way back to downtown Santa Fe. Sharing Pueblo history, art and culture -especially the Tewa-speaking Pueblos of Pojoaque, San Ildefonso, San Juan, Santa Clara, Tesuque and Nambe- the Center is built to resemble a traditional Pueblo village and features art studios and outdoor gathering areas. There are rotating exhibits as well as the Nah Poeh Meng permanent exhibition that features rooms based on both a temporal and seasonal theme.

Galleries line the streets of the Santa Fe Plaza and Downtown District 

3. Exploring The Plaza, the heartbeat of Santa Fe. Here we browsed the various galleries and shops, and some of the historic sites like The Palace of The Governors that since 1610, has housed the offices and living quarters of 58 Spanish Colonial Governors, 16 Mexican Governors, 4 military and 3 civilian US governors, and 17 Territorial Governors. We stopped by the iconic Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi that was built by Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy from 1869-1886, on the site of an older adobe church, La Parroquia, that was built from 1714–1717.

A National Historic Landmark that's listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Santa Fe Plaza is a beautiful tree shaded park with a monument, a gazebo for live entertainment and gatherings, and vendors and food trucks.

Thunderbird Bar & Gill is on the Santa Fe Margarita Trail

Our friend Tanya gifted us with dinner upstairs at the Thunderbird Bar & Grill.  A great spot for an end-of-day margarita, the outdoor patio area has a sweet view of the Plaza, and a fun energy. Their Prickly Pear and House Margaritas were refreshing (and yes, of course they are on the Santa Fe Margarita Trail), and our dinner of Prime Beef Sliders and the Calabacita Vegetarian Wrap were big on fresh and delicious flavors. 

Beautiful Santa Fe Botanical Garden at Museum Hill

DAY 3: MUSEUM HILL, RAILYARD PARK & THE PLAZA

1. We spent the first part of the morning at Museum Hill, where we explored the beautiful Santa Fe Botanical Garden and the fascinating Museum of International Folk Art. On the way in, we stopped at the Journey's End sculpture by Renaldo "Sonny" Rivera and landscape architect Richard Borkovetz, that marks the end of the historic Santa Fe Trail.

From roses to yuccas, the Santa Fe Botanical Garden is a lovely showcase of what can grow in the region, including native and traditional plants. Designed by landscape architect W. Gary Smith, the Garden is a learning landscape with Orchard Gardens and an Ethnobotanical Garden, plus a sculpture exhibit. Watch our Santa Fe Botanical Garden video on YouTube.com. 

Learn about the cultures of the world at the Museum of International Folk Art

Home to over 130,000 pieces from over 100 countries, the Museum of International Folk Art houses the largest collection of international folk art in the world. From jewelry to textile art, wood carvings to dolls, the museum's impressive collection provides a unique way to learn about the various cultures and customs around the world. Current exhibits we viewed included: "Alexander Girard: A Designer's Universe," "Girard's Modern Folk," "Community through Making From Peru to New Mexico," "A Gathering of Voices: Folk Art from the Judith Espinar and Tom Dillenberg Collection," and "Multiple Visions: A Common Bond."

Next time we visit Museum Hill we need to explore the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, and Museum of Spanish Colonial Art.

Amelia E. White Park on the Santa Fe National Historic Trail

2. We made a quick stop at Amelia E. White Park which is just outside of Museum Hill and on the Santa Fe National Historic Trail. While it's a charming little community park complete with a shaded ramada and walking paths, it is an historic site that focuses on the two-way nature of the Santa Fe Trail, and highlights the contributions of Hispanic traders to this international highway of commerce.

Railyard Garden at Railyard Park

3. Exploring the Gardens at Railyard Park. This 13-acre historic former railyard features a variety of gardens that include a circular rose ramada, native plants and drought resistant gardens, a railyard garden, community food gardens, plus, an outdoor performance venue and public art space, shaded picnic spots, bicycle and walking paths, and a children’s play area.

We took a tour with Christy Lee Downs, Rebecca D'Agostine and Shannon Palermo, who maintain this unique park and gardens through the non-profit Railyard Park Conservancy. You can hear our Big Blend Radio interview with them on YouTube.com. 

Art, History and Luxury await at the La Fonda on the Plaza

4. Checked in at La Fonda on the Plaza. The only hotel situated right on the Plaza, and also on the historic Santa Fe Trail and Route 66 'The Mother Road,' the award-winning La Fonda is a destination unto itself. Casual elegance exudes from every corner with over 1000 original art pieces and a history that spans over 400 years, plus, a fine selection of facilities and amenities that include top notch dining and entertainment venues, beautiful wedding and event spaces, spa and wellness services, boutique shopping, art and history tours, valet parking, and more. Simply said, at La Fonda, comfort is king and the experience reigns supreme!

Felix y Los Gatos perform at Santa Fe Bandstand

5. Margaritas, Burgers & Music at the Plaza! It was an eventful day, but we still wanted to catch the Santa Fe Bandstand concert at the Plaza. This summer concerts series is New Mexico's largest free music concert and let me tell you, the talent is jammin' hot and the Plaza was packed with music lovers! We made a return visit to Thunderbird Bar & Grill for a quick burger and margarita, then caught Felix y Los Gatos and ShinyRibs in concert! Yeah! Rock On!!!

Influenced by the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, the Loretta Chapel was built in the 1870s to serve the Loretto Academy operated by the Sisters of  Loretto. 

DAY 4: STATE CAPITAL & CHURCHES,  LA FONDA & THE FOREST
1. Historic Churches. We started the day with a walk from the La Fonda to the New Mexico State Capitol building to view its art collection. Along the way we we watched as galleries opened up and saw historic sites like the Loretto Chapel that's known for the legend of its "miraculous staircase," and, the San Miguel Mission, the oldest church in the country.  

The oldest church in America, San Miguel Mission was built in 1610 around the time Santa Fe was founded.

2. New Mexico Capitol Art Collection - Renovated in the early 1990s, the New Mexico State Capitol building was originally designed by W. C. Kruger and built by Robert E. McKee in the late 1960s. Known as the "Roundhouse" it was built in New Mexico Territorial style, an adaptation of Greek revival and Pueblo adobe architecture. Today, through the Capitol Art Foundation & Art Collection, visitors can view, for free, over 600 pieces of art representing over 600 New Mexico artists.

Art on display at the New Mexico State Capitol Building 

 3.  Tour & Lunch at La Fonda on the Plaza - We returned to the La Fonda on the Plaza to take part of one of their popular docent led tours to learn more about the rich history and art that has made the hotel's story and experience so distinct. The tours are free for hotel guests and non-guests alike, and well worth the time. You'll hear how it sits on the site of the very first Inn that was built back when the city was originally founded in 1607. After a few more changes, in 1922 it was rebuilt with architects / designers Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter and John Gaw Meem in charge. In 1925 it was purchased by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway and leased to Fred Harvey who spearheaded the world of cultural tourism.

Chile Rellenos lunch at La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza

During lunch with hotel representatives Ed Puslifer and Britta Andersson we learned even more about the phenomenal impact that Fred Harvey and Mary Colter had on the La Fonda, Santa Fe and the tourism industry.  Lunch was absolutely fabulous at the historic La Plazuela Restaurant, and if you want to hear all about the hotel's art, history, culinary delights and visitor experience, take a listen to the Big Blend Radio conversation with Ed on YouTube.com. 

Spectacular Santa Fe National Forest is just 15 minutes from downtown Santa Fe

5. Santa Fe National Forest - We ended our day with a scenic drive, a little hike and a sip of wine overlooking a spectacular mountain view in the Santa Fe National Forest. Just a 15 minute drive from the La Fonda on the Plaza, the road winds its way up from a high desert setting, past Hyde Memorial State Park, and into a pristine forest magicland complete with trickling streams and mini waterfalls, summer wildflowers and lush green meadows.

Food Tour New Mexico guide Nick Pena takes us for Pizza at The Upper Crust

DAY 5: NEW MEXICO FOOD TOUR 

Our final experience in Santa Fe was on a culinary walking tour with Food Tour New Mexico. Our guide Nick Pena met as at the Plaza and took us along with another mother-daughter team to four different foodie experiences. We started off at the La Posada where they served us posole and pork in a tasty red chile sauce paired with a crisp white wine. At San Francisco Street Grill we savored chicken enchiladas splashed with green and red chile sauce (they call that Christmas!), paired with a margarita. Then it was off to Upper Crust Pizza where we sampled the difference between a regular 'American' pizza and a Santa Fe style pie, and of course we had to try some local New Mexico brew.

A sip of decadence at Kakawa Chocolate House

The grand finale was the amazing drinking chocolate at Kakawa Chocolate House. The tour was a delicious and interesting experience that not only connected us with Santa Fe's cultural traditions, but also clued us in on some more of its history and legendary stories that built its reputation as "The City Different."

After all that exploring and full roster of activities I say it's time for another margarita!

Today we head east to historic Natchitoches, Louisiana! Cheers until next time!

Miss P. 

Find it in Florence

Welcome to Historic Florence, in Fremont County, Southern Colorado

Part 6 of our Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado Love Your Parks Tour Road Trip Adventure.

We arrived in Florence, Colorado in the late afternoon of Monday, June 10. Our writer pal Eva Eldridge grew up here and wanted us to come visit her hometown and stay in her house that she has remodeled into a wonderful writer’s retreat.

Daylilies at Eva's

Talk about tranquility and a beautiful respite from the road. Her home is peaceful with scenic views that stretch out to Pikes Peak, blooming daylilies and a bounty of grapes and mulberries, visiting deer and horses, rockin’ robins and chattering finches, oh this is a special place for sure. It’s been a great spot for Nancy and Lisa to catch up on all of their magazine, radio and video work, and for us all to get some much needed R&R. 

Downtown Florence is a National Historic District and known as the Antique Capital of Colorado

Florence may make headline news as home to the Supermax prison, along with neighboring Canon City being home to state prisons, but the sheer beauty of the region coupled with its small town charm should be the main focus of media attention. 

Florence is beautiful! 

Originally built as a railroad hub for trains hauling coal from nearby Rockvale and Coal Creek, Florence made history in 1862 as the first oil center west of the Mississippi. Today the downtown is a National Historic District that’s made a name for itself as the Antique Capital of Colorado.

You really can find almost anything at the Florence Consignment Corner!

Along with its wonderful collection of art galleries and antique, consignment and boutique shops, the downtown has a good selection of restaurants, a brewery, an art and cultural center, museum, historic theatre, bowling alley, and parks. From cute railroad homes to ornate Victorian buildings, it’s fun to walk the downtown district and tree-lined neighborhoods to see the architecture and flower-filled gardens. 

The Bell Tower Cultural Center is a must-visit for art and flower power in Florence

Florence has some great riverfront parks and trails to explore, as does nearby Canon City and Penrose. We’ve gone to Pathfinder Park, named after explorer John C. Fremont, for quite a few morning walks along the Arkansas River. That river is flowing pretty fast, and is a popular rafting and surfing…yes surfing…waterway. 

Pathfinder Park is named after explorer, soldier and politician John C. Fremont

We’ve also visited  Florence River Park which is popular for river surfing, and beautiful Florence Mountain Park that's just south of town and straddles the San Isabel National Forest. What a beautiful hiking destination!

Florence Mountain Park is breathtaking! 

Other nearby parks we have explored include the Arkansas Riverwalk at John Griffin Regional Park in Canon City, and at Brush Hollow Reservoir in Penrose.

Rafting fun on the Arkansas River

These parks are big on beauty with the rushing river and water areas, rugged cliffs and mountain views, cool trees for shade, all kinds of birds and wildflowers, and plenty of deer. I even spotted my first skunk one morning!

Brush Hollow Reservoir 

Other Florence highlights we have experienced included a visit to view the art and sculptures at the Bell Tower Cultural Center, as well as some of the shops like Owl Apothecary, Florence  Consignment Corner, and Worldwide Treasures. We popped in to see Florence Brewing Company but need to go back when it’s not too early for a tasting. …I’ve heard you can enjoy a brew while getting your hair cut at the barber shop nextdoor!

Worldwide Treasures

The town’s motto is “Find it in Florence,” and I think that once you get here, you’ll find a whole bunch of experiences to enjoy as well as some lovely treasures in the downtown shops. Be sure to stop by the Florence of Chamber of Commerce office for some local info, they’re super friendly over there, just like everyone we’ve met in Florence!

See our new video "Discover Florence, Colorado" on YouTube.com. 

Peekaboo!

We can’t wait to come back and spend some quality time in the shops, parks and restaurants. And, we still need to experience the historic Rialto Theatre, and regional attractions like the Royal Gorge Bridge & Park and Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve. So much to do, so little time!

A big thank you goes to our friend Eva for making us feel so at home in her writer’s retreat. Her design and home remodeling skills are second to none…we all think she should have her own HGTV show!

Next week I’ll give you the scoop on Santa Fe, ‘The City Different.”  For now it’s back to that mulberry tree before the birds get today’s harvest!

Miss P.

A Rocky Mountain Adventure

Rocky Mountain National Park - What a View!

Part 5 of our Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado Love Your Parks Tour Road Trip adventure.

In the wee morning hours of Monday, June 10, we packed up the car and said our goodbyes to beautiful Greeley, Colorado and headed west to Rocky Mountain National Park. We were on our way to Florence in southern Colorado, and decided a park detour was in order. Besides, the legendary Trail Ridge Road had just opened up for the season. 

Fall River Entrance Station just outside Estes Park

We headed west on Highway 34 through Loveland and Estes Park, and entered the park through the Fall River Entrance Station. Talk about jaw dropping magnificence. Rocky Mountain National Park is pure beauty!

No valet parking for you!

We made a stop at Sheep Lakes to watch some distant elk and a very chirpy magpie. Then started the slow ascension up through the mountains. We saw lush meadows and forest areas, wildflowers, elk and deer, marmots and squirrels, and all kinds of birds including wild turkeys. The climb just kept on going up and the views grew in grandeur.

Peekaboo! 

Talk about a big change in altitude, we were all starting to feel a tad lightheaded when we reached the snowfields, high above the tree lines (we went above 12,000 ft!). We had traveled up through three main ecosystems: Montane (below 9000 ft), Subalpine (9000-11,400 ft), and Alpine (above 11,400 ft.) Did I say the views were incredible?!

Brrrr.....these snowfields are cold!

Also known as Beaver Meadow National Scenic Byway, Trail Ridge Road is the highest paved through-road in the state, as well as the highest paved road that crosses the continental divide in Colorado! We even saw the Continental Divide sign right at the frozen over Poudre Lake, at the edge of Milner Pass.

Welcome to the Continental Divide!

We were amazed at the snow on the side of the road, and laughed out loud when the first picnic spot we stopped at was ‘snowed in.’ We did make it for our brunch picnic, and a scenic one it was, right near the head of the Colorado River. 

Near the Colorado River Headwaters 

I’m sending a big shout out to the folks at My Place Coffee for loading up our picnic basket with thick, yummy sandwiches along with cookies and pastry snacks. Of course, we had our trusty PortoVino backpack with us for some pretty special “PortoVino with a View” moments, and our new collapsable Tahoe Cooler from CleverMade. If you need to travel light like we do, both of these cooler bags are stellar! 

Rocky Mountain Picnic "Pig-Out!"

We explored some trails and more picnic sites along the way, including a stop at beautiful Beaver Ponds and at the Holzwarth Historic Site. Back in 1917, John and Sophia Holzwarth used the Homestead Act of 1862 to make a home right here in the beautiful Kawuneeche Valley. What a life they must have led! As tourism to the park grew, they opened a guest ranch called Holzwarth Trout Lodge, and then a few years later, opened the Never Summer Ranch on the east side of the Colorado River.

Holzwarth Historic Site

I kept my eyes peeled for a moose sighting, especially when we were in the Harbison Meadows area, but unfortunately we didn’t get to see them this time round. We visited the Kawuneeche Visitor Center to get our park passport stamp, and then we made our way out of the park and headed towards Grand Lake and Grandby. What a gorgeous drive through the Arapaho National Recreation Area! Of course with all the beautiful lake and snow capped views, we had to make a pit stop for another little cookie break!

Cookies with a View at Shadow Mountain Reservoir

From there we headed south with mini stops at Shadow Mountain Reservoir, White River National Forest, Blue River State Wildlife Area, and South Park National Heritage Area. As we neared Cañon City and Florence, past the Royal Gorge, the landscape melded into a lovely lush high desert region.

Highway 9, south to Cañon City and Florence

Before we went to our friend Eva's house, we did a quick drive through historic downtown Florence, and oohed and aahed at all the beautiful historic buildings and shops. Turns out, the downtown is a National Historic District and it's known as the Antique Capital of Colorado. I think it should be known for its hollyhock flower power too. …but more to come on Florence and Santa Fe, New Mexico in my next couple of posts!

Historic Downtown Florence, the Antique Capital of Colorado!

You can watch our new “Following Trail Ridge Road” video below or right on YouTube.

Happy Travel Tuesday!

Miss P.